Let’s talk about trouser length for suits. When it comes to suit tailoring, there can be a lot of emphasis on the blazer.
Don’t get us wrong, it’s hard to beat a perfectly fitted jacket – but there’s also something to be said for trousers that fit just right.
We’re talking about a waist that doesn’t dig in, a smooth seat, a perfect fit around the waist, and above all – the right length.
The main reason that suit trouser length is so important is that it can play a big role in how tall or short you look – which is something most men want to get right. Whether it’s for work or a custom wedding suit you want to look your absolute best.
Here at Montagio, we specialise in perfect fits – which includes nailing the correct suit trouser length.
In the following suit trouser guide, we’ll talk about how to measure your suit trousers, how to determine the correct length for suit trousers based on height and shoe choices, what a ‘trouser break’ means and other aspects of fit you should consider.
How to measure suit trouser length
The trouser length can be measured from the inseam and outseam.
Here’s how to get the inseam measurement :
Step 1 : Take an existing pair of well-fitting trousers and lay them flat on a surface.
Step 2 : Flip one of the legs back so you can see the crotch seam.
Step 3 : Measure along the inside seam, starting at the crotch seam down to the bottom of the hem
You can also take the outseam measurement, which is the length from the top of the waistband, down the outer trouser seam, all the way to the bottom of the hem.
Just make sure you don’t confuse your outseam measurement with your inseam measurement!
If you don’t already own a well-fitting pair of suit trousers, you can measure your waist (where you like your trousers to sit), down to where you would like the hem, to determine how long your pants should be.
Do this by :
Step 1 : Putting on a pair of dress shoes to get the correct measurement.
Step 2 : Standing straight and have someone measure from your waistline (where you typically wear your trousers) down to the desired length on the shoe – e.g. just on top of shoe, half-way down the shoe, or to the top of the heel seam).
Tip :
Ensure the tape measure follows the natural line of your leg for accuracy – don’t measure straight down, otherwise you will end up with a trouser that looks shorter than what you expected.
Rather, measure from waist to knee while slightly curving the tape to follow the curve of your upper leg (usually curves out towards the front). Then measure from knee to hem following the curve of the calf (usually curves out towards the back). So it will be like an S-shape from top to bottom.
If in doubt, leave it to the experts at Montagio – that way you can rest assured that all measurements are taken properly.
We’ve got more than enough experience and skill to achieve the correct trouser length for men’s suits and tailor a perfectly fitted ensemble
How to tell if your trousers are properly fitted
If you’re wondering how suit trousers should fit, you’re not alone. Many people have no idea how properly fitting clothes look and feel.
This is what good looks like :
– Waist
A good suit trouser fit means your trousers should sit comfortably at your waist.
Where exactly you want them to sit is up to personal preference – some people prefer higher on the waist (high-rise trouser), some prefer lower (low-rise trouser).
They should be snug enough to stay up without a belt, but not so tight that you’re gasping for air.
– Thighs
For the thighs, you want a Goldilocks fit—not too tight, not too loose, just right.
You should have enough room to move freely without the fabric pulling or straining, especially when you sit or walk.
If your trousers cling like a second skin or you see horizontal lines across the thighs, they’re too tight. On the flip side, if they’re billowing, consider having them tapered to your preference.
– Seat
The seat should be smooth and flat, with no sagging or pulling. If your trousers are too tight, you’ll see the fabric strain around the back.
If they’re too loose, you’ll notice a slack, shapeless look. You want a clean, streamlined appearance that follows the natural contours of your body.
– Length
When it comes to length, it’s all about the break—the little crease where the fabric meets your shoe.
A classic fit will have a half-break, with a slightly wider cuff where the trouser covers the top of your shoes and finishes slightly below the mouth of the shoe.
What is a suit trouser break?
First things first, what is the break?
The break is where the trousers fall on your shoe creating a horizontal crease. Depending on the length of your trousers, you can have way too much or way too little.
At Montagio, we prefer the happy middle ground of no break, which is great for elongating your legs, and adding height to your silhouette.
Those of you with ankles to die for might prefer the trendy, uber-short style that stops just above your ankle, but be warned, this is only fitting for slim-fit suit trousers on men with lean figures.
Ultimately, there is no right and wrong when it comes to a men’s suit trouser length – like most things in fashion, it’s down to preference. However, there are some general guidelines tailors follow based on height, or shoe choices.
Types of trouser break based on height
| Height | Recommended Trouser Break | Description |
| Under 5’7″ (170 cm) | No Break or Slight Break | A no-break or slight break elongates the legs, creating a taller appearance. Trousers should just skim the top of the shoes – this is a more modern cut. |
| 5’7″ – 6’0″ (170-183 cm) | Slight Break or Half Break | This height range can pull off a slight or half break, which provides a balanced look. The fabric should lightly rest on the shoes with a minimal crease. |
| Over 6’0″ (183 cm) | Half Break or Full Break | Taller men can wear a half or full break without looking too long in the legs. Just note that a full break adds a bit more fabric over the shoes, and is a more classic, relaxed look. |
Types of trouser breaks based on shoes
| Shoes | Recommended Trouser Break | Explanation |
| Loafers | No Break or Slight Break | A slightly shorter trouser length enhances the overall appearance and showcases the loafers. |
| Lace-ups | No Break or Slight Break | When it comes to lace-ups, our preference is to have the trousers just long enough to ‘kiss’ the mouth of the shoe. |
| Boots | Half Break or Full Break | Boots usually have a tag on the back, and the last thing you want is for your pants to get caught on the tag. Therefore, your trousers should be longer and wider, just hitting the curve when the shoe goes from vertical to horizontal. |
Other ways to tailor your suit trousers:
Pleats or flat front
If you’re getting your trousers made from scratch, you have the option to go bold with a pleated front.
Stylish, sophisticated, and with plenty of flair, this style will also give more room at the front while still looking polished. The alternative is the front flat – this is a classic for a reason, and extremely versatile.
Closures
There’s the timeless button and zip fly, but your tailor can also give you more individualistic options like the Gurkha (a clean front with side adjustors), or the more casual drawstring. You can also choose to include (or leave off) belt loops.
Pockets
Some pockets are just there for aesthetics, some are there for function.
Your tailor can help you decide between options like the Frogmouth Front Pocket (allows you top access, like jeans), Jetted Front Pockets (an aesthetic detail on more formal trousers), Flap Back Pockets (a sportier take on the rear pocket), and more.
How Montagio can help
Montagio has a proud legacy of crafting personalised, beautifully tailored men’s suits, and a reputation endorsed by GQ Magazine as one of the best tailors in the business.
We’re your go-to for wardrobe essentials, style advice and finding the perfect fit.
Our success lies in our commitment to personalisation, ensuring each look is a reflection of the individual wearing it. If it lacks that personal touch, it simply isn’t Montagio.
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